Friday, January 21, 2011

Wonky Tusk did walk through the lobby at Mfuwe Lodge!

Wonky Tusk did walk through the lobby at Mfuwe Lodge!



We were so fortunate to see Wonky Tusk and little Wellington. She comes any time, night or day, so can be difficult to catch. We missed her 3 times before we caught her one morning at 6 am! The wild mangoes kept her there for 18 minutes. Then she marched her family through the lobby and disappeared into the bush.

We also caught another family under the mango tree one afternoon, just as Jonathan Scott started his talk about the Big Cat Diary, filmed for the BBC in the Masai Mara, Kenya.


It was an intense week of photography lessons, by Jonathan Scott, and history talks, given by Phil Berry, the legend of the South Luangwa. We also learned about the Wild Dog Predator Project and the South Luangwa Conservation Society from Matt and Rachel, who run these programs. We even made a visit to the Chiwawatala School, which Mfuwe Lodge and Bushcamps support. We also visited Tribal Textiles.



But we never missed a game drive; we were out an hour before the regular guests and stayed out longer at night too. Tom and I shared this experience with people from the UK, Austria, New Zealand and Ireland. It was a great week. I hope they will offer it again next year.


One of my favorite photograph is this one of a Carmine Bee-eater with a bug in it's beak. They nest on the dry banks of the Luangwa River during the dry season. They dig deep tunnels into the sandbanks where they lay eggs and raise their young, who must fly out before the river floods during the wet season.


See more pictures here

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Kristina is off to Africa again

Kristina is visiting Tanzania, arriving on Oct 13 into Arusha. I will stay for 2 nights at the Serena Mountain Village lodge. On the 14th, I will deliver a suitcase (plus more stuff) full of clothing and school supplies to St. Marks Children's Home in Kwa Ugoro Village 35km outside of Arusha. I'm looking forward to see the children there.

On the 15th, I start an agents' familiarization trip the Mbali Mbali camps in TZ arranged by Kamili Safaris in the UK. We will be 3 agents from the US, 2 from the UK, 1 from Holland and 1 from Australia. These are the Tarangire River Camp, Soroi Serengeti Lodge, Katuma Bush Lodge in Katavi NP, Kungwe Beach Lodge in Mahale NP and Gombe Forest Lodge in Gombe Stream NP. This is the 50th anniversary of Jane Goodall's work there.

After one night at the Kempinski Dare es Salaam, I fly to Johannesburg to meet Tom and we're off to Zambia for 2 weeks. We'll spend the entire time around Mfuwe in the South Luangwa National Park. Our first stop is at Kuyenda. We will spend 4 nights here with Phil Berry. this is a Traditional Zambian Bushcamp; A charming and rustic camp that offers a true taste of the African bush with one of the Luangwa’s premier guides at its helm. Then we spend 3 nights at Zungulila, a Rustic Tented Camp; Perfect for small private groups, this isolated, rustic bushcamp delivers an authentic walking safari experience. Then just one night at Kapamba, a Stylish Riverside Camp; A remote and romantic camp situated in a prime location on the Kapamba River, and the only bushcamp to be open from May to January.


We will spend 8 nights at Mfuwe Lodge, an award winning safari lodge set in the most prolific game area of the South Luangwa. The perfect place to enjoy excellent game viewing, recharge your batteries, or to start and finish your journey to our bushcamps. Here we're guided by Jonathan Scott of BBC's Big Cat Diary fame. It will be an intense week of lectures and safari. The draw is of course Ms Wonky Tusk and her family walking through the lobby to reach the ripe mangoes in the garden on the other side.

Watch them in this video here: Enjoy!

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Back from Stockholm

I’m just back from Stockholm, which was a quick visit with family and friends. I enjoyed my birth city very much. However the return flight was something else. I flew Delta Airlines from Seattle via JFK to Stockholm, since SAS pulled out of here last summer. Couldn’t be easier. Right? Icelandair works great too, but the price was much higher and being MVP Gold with Alaska, I get better seats on Delta and the miles count towards my MVP status. Going over on Aug 18 went like clockwork and I had 5½ hours to kill at JFK. We arrived early! Going home was another matter though.

I was supposed to fly on Monday Aug 30. All seemed well when I checked in online. I arrived at ARN 3 hours early as requested. They are very thorough there with security at check-in, so it can take awhile. By 9am I was ready to go through; departure was scheduled for 11:05am, but we were informed that the plane would be 5 hours late arriving from JFK, due to some mechanical problem. I decided to just wait it out at ARN instead of going back with my sister. They live about an hour away and gas is expensive there and she had work to do.

I got a voucher for 85 kronor to eat lunch. How very generous of them!!! Hahaha!!! Mind you there’s NOTHING at ARN that cost 85 kronor except a bottle of water which was 39. You get 7 kronor to the dollar (about the same as the South African rand). Around 11am I got a shrimp salad for 139 kronor, a bottle of water and then I discovered Starbucks (opened on Feb 18, 2010 in Terminal 5, gate area 1-10). I just had to have it! About $100 lighter, I walked away with a double-tall wet-capp. Hmmmm … good!! I also taught the barista how to make a “Why Bother”.

Our plane arrived on-time (4.5 hours late) at the gate. Boarding was to be at 2:30pm, but they didn’t start boarding until 3:35, so there was no way we could leave at 3:40 as promised. Oh well, I would miss my 4:20pm Seattle flight anyway. There was another at 8:20pm that I was hoping to make, but it was looking tight. Stockholm is 6 hours ahead of NYC and the flight takes about 8-9 hours depending on the winds. Then there’s immigration and customs at JFK. We were all aboard at 4pm, it was a full flight, but I had secured an exit aisle seat that reclines. My status with Alaska Airlines allowed this as partners. I was also allowed to check 2 free bags. Others get to take only 1 free bag to Europe, so there were loads of carry-on bags and shopping bags. This was an old, formerly NWA 727 plane with very small luggage bins. Here we sat: there was another small matter to be fixed, which took maybe 20 minutes, but then we had to wait for a new clearance from ATL. There was confusion as to who owned the plane now that Delta took over NWA, etc… ad nauseum. That took another hour. And we sat there. 2 young kids were escorted off the plane. They were supposedly drunk, but the real reason was (I think) that the flight attendants were uncomfortable with their looks. They had green, red and blue hair, lots of tattoos, body piercing and various size rings in weird places, but they were nice and courteous. That they apologized and admitted that they had saved and looked forward to this trip for over a year didn’t matter. They offered to take a breathalyzer test. It didn’t matter; other drunks were sound asleep in their seats. The plane had that certain odor. These punks had to go and it was a bad omen.

Finally the required documentation arrived via fax from Atlanta and we took off. The movie system was the old kind with the TV sets hanging above the aisle; there was no sound. Half an hour out of Stockholm, the co-pilot lost his computer. The captain told us that FAA does not allow them to cross without 2 working computers even though it’s perfectly safe with just one, so we had to return to ARN. We dumped fuel for about an hour and a half, flying with the landing gears and flaps down. This shakes the plane a little, but too much for some! We got a drink and some peanuts, but no food. We landed again around 8pm with an extra 15 tons of fuel which required that all other traffic was stopped and all the fire-trucks at Arlanda lined up on both sides of the runway to meet us. The captain was very skilled and there was no emergency. Most likely the brakes were now shot and had to be replaced.

Delta offered to put us up at a hotel or pay for taxis for those who lived close by. Our departure time tomorrow would be 12:30pm – an hour and a half behind the regular scheduled time. OK, what to do? I decided to not bother my sister as they were out on Monday nights bowling. She’s the captain of the team and her husband bowls too. After collecting my bags, I proceeded to the Arrivals Hall as explained by the Delta attendant over the PA system on the plane before we disembarked. The Arrivals Hall is outside of customs. Once out there, I didn’t see the Delta help desk as described. Another couple also was helplessly lost. Where is everybody? I ran to the general information, but in typical Swedish hospitality, they were clueless and not helpful: “it’s not my table” kinda’ attitude. Not many people on the plane came out, just a few who were going home. The line is INSIDE customs in baggage claim. That is not the Arrivals Hall. How do I get back in? I have no place to go and no way to call my sister. I chanced it. The next time the door opened to let people out, I went back inside the holding room, blocked by another door that could only be opened from the other/customs side. I’m in no-man’s land here, alone and worried. OK, someone’s coming out now; I take my chances, backing in with my luggage cart, passing people going out as if I was doing the same!!! I feel like a genius passing the inspectors backwards. One of them looked at my sideways, so I asked him where the Delta help desk is and he told me. I was back inside!

I ended up pretty close to the end of the line. At 10:30pm they run out of hotel rooms in Stockholm! There was a big heart surgeons’ convention going on with 40,000 people attending. There were maybe 10 more rooms needed for us. Delta gave us food vouchers to eat dinner at the airport while we waited to find out if she could get any more rooms anywhere around Stockholm. At this point my sister was home again, I was able to call from the Delta phone, I got taxi vouchers and ended up with Britten and Hasse overnight again. She was so happy I couldn’t believe it. I even got dinner! Then late to bed at 1am.

The next morning (Tuesday Aug 31), the taxi came to get me at 8:30 as scheduled. Now the checkin line was twice as long as yesterday. There were 2 full flights to load today. The regular flight was on-time. The funny-haired, body-pierced couple looked rested and somewhat less colorful today as they left with this plane. They were the lucky ones as it turns out. They got to JFK before we did!!!!

Delta had flown in the required parts from Amsterdam overnight and worked on the plane all morning. They fixed the sound system too or so they thought. The movie started and there was sound alright at my seat and in front of me, but the back apparently had no sound. The flight attendants decided to stop the movie and reboot the system. Now we all got sound, but it’s in French, so they rebooted it again; this time the actors are speaking Spanish; the third time we’re treated to Italian! They decided to change the movie, but we still got French again. It was like Christmas Eve … we were guessing and looking forward what it would be next with great anticipation. “What do you in German”, I asked the attendant who looked a bit - not-so-amused! Another movie in French came on. Have you ever heard Morgan Freeman speak French as Nelson Mandela in Invictus? It was funny and people were laughing. Twice more they tried and both time we got the safety movie again … twice. Then they turned the system off. Nobody seemed to care anymore. There was no compensation offered for this inconvenience. However, we all got a $50 certificate yesterday good towards another purchase only good at Delta.com of another airline ticket on Delta, non-transferable. Thank YOU, Delta for your super generosity: that’s about the average daily wage in America, I suppose. Maybe the captain makes a little more, I hope.

Normal arriving time if you leave at 11:05 is 1:55pm at JFK; our arrival time was scheduled for 2:02pm – how can that be if we leave 1.5 hours later? Everyone was therefore rebooked on their same connections as yesterday, which wouldn’t work for most people. Would I make a flight departing JFK at 4:20pm? It was recently moved back from 3:40pm, which was tight even with the 11am departure time. Some people had connections booked at 3pm!!! They wouldn’t rebook us in Stockholm. So, the only option presented to us was to get in line (for another 3 hours??) at JFK to be re-booked there after we arrived. By that time, most will miss the next flight too. I was prepared mentally to have to overnight at JFK. Why worry now as there’s nothing you can do anyway. I used to get tied in knots (to the point of feeling ill), but have learned to relax in these situations. It’s not easy, but it feels so much better. My friend Kennedy in Nairobi told me: "I've chosen not to be petty; it keeps me in good form"; this keeps me calm too. 

I had a great book to read “Blue-Eyed in Luhya-Land”. An old friend of mine Gunilla Fagerholm (the author) and her husband decided at 50 years old, after their kids were gone to sell all their belongings and move to Kenya. They settled right outside the Kakamega Rain Forest. I’m not done with the book, but it’s incredible what they went through. I must see her next time I go. Her brother Per-Erik is also an old friend and I did meet him that first night at the re-union and he told me about her and gave me the book. He’d been down there several times and filmed certain subjects. I got his DVD on the Kakamega Rain Forest. What interesting friends I have!

We took off at 12:45 and were airborne by 1pm. We have a good tailwind today: scheduled flying time 8:03 hours. This puts us at JFK around 3:05pm! Oh my God, maybe I can make that flight to SEA after all? I was sitting fairly close to the door, so I deplaned quickly; immigration was a breeze and my luggage was marked priority, so it came out first at JFK. Sure enough my SEA flight was delayed about half an hour at JFK and I got home!

The lesson learned here is: always leave early, like 3 days, if you have a boat to catch!

To top if off: I've been denied my miles on Alaska Airlines for the flight from Stockholm to New York because Delta gave my flight an ineligible flight number that won't accrue any mileage. Mind you, I'm GOLD MVP and accrue double miles with Alaska. That is what really ticks me off the most!!! SIGH!!!

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Transfrontier Parks Destinations

Shortly after my Iceland visit, the neighboring volcano struck with a vengeance and disrupted air traffic across Europe for more than a week. Shortly thereafter, I left for Johannesburg, but not before rearranging my air schedule in the last minute. On April 27, I found myself on a non-stop 17 hour flight from Atlanta to Johannesburg. Was I ever glad to finally get off that plane and inhale the smells of Afreeekah again.
After a few days around Johannesburg, I joined a group of travel agents on an educational safari to the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park, in Mozambique, bordering Kruger Park in South Africa. We stayed at the beautiful Machampane Wilderness Camp.

The highlight here was a visit to the local village and school at Massingir Vehlo. The classroom consists of a teacher with a blackboard under the shade of a tree. The kids are so happy and well behaved. It was such a pleasure to be their guest for an hour.

Just look at these smiling faces! Some are shy, some full of miss-chief and some just adorable.



From Mozambique, we travelled back via Johannesburg to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, bordering Namibia & Botswana. Here we stayed at !Xaus Lodge, located above a salt pan.
Here we met Timone, a most adorable little meerkat. The local bushmen found her abandoned in the desert and brought her to the lodge, where she is thriving and delighting the guests. She has a great sense of humor and talks up a storm!

The sunset in the desert are to die for!
especially through a glass of wine. Enjoy your sun-downer!


You too can enjoy a sundowner in Africa.
Sign up for my next safari!!!
I'll guarantee you a gorgeous African Sunset.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Fire and Ice, Volcanic Eruptions, Waterfalls and Rainbows, Evil Lava and Delicate Moss

We're back from Iceland and what an experience it was.
Iceland is a land of contrasts: Fire and Ice, Waterfalls and Rainbows, Evil Lava and Delicate Moss, Violent Eruptions and Jagged Lava Flows, Smooth Glaciers and Deep Crevasses, Gentle Rivers and Big Rapids, Fissures and Lagoons opening up inside your house, Mid-Atlantic Rift, NO TREES! Icelandic horses, Iceland Lobsters are the best I ever tasted - small, soft, sweet and delicious!!! Hmmm GOOD!!

We really lucked out with the weather in Iceland, especially since the forecast was awful. But it turned 180 degrees and we had cool sunny weather with clear skies for 3 full days. We were able to drive up to the volcano (take a look at some of Tom’s videos) and we saw the Northern Lights 2 nights in a row.

I’ve posted my highlight pictures with a few comments on Facebook here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=54300&id=1025908296&l=a40dccb199

Tom has posted all our pictures and videos here:  http://tomtrowbridge.com/

Here are some of the highlights:

The Aurora Borealis


The Blue Lagoon with silica mud


Geysir going off

Gullfoss Waterfall

Mount Hekla, the entrance to HELL!!

Mid-Atlantic Rift, dividing Europe and America.
In Iceland you can walk through it! Amazing.

Skogar Waterfall with rainbow

Walk-on glacier

Volcanic eruption steam cloud

Searching for the eruption in specially equipped Land Rover

Lava on the glacier from the eruption

The eruption

Hot Lava

Building a new mountain

Driving back across the glacier

Islandic Lobster dinner at the Seafood Cellar

Aurora Borealis


 

Monday, March 29, 2010

3 new words: Fimmvörduháls, Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull

I'm taking Tom to Iceland for 5 days from April 1-5, 2010. Not sure if we’ll be able to see the eruption. Tom sure wants to though. I'm not sure I want to hike 6 hours each way in the cold to where you can see it. The weather forecast calls for snow this Easter weekend. Fimmvörduháls is a passage between two glaciers, Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. This is where the eruption is taking place.

Here's our itinerary.
04/01/2010 depart Seattle to Keflavik on FI 680 4:30 PM - 6:45 AM
The FlyBus waits for each incoming flight at the curb outside the Arrivals Hall.
3 nights at Icelandair Hótel Loftleiðir in Reykjavik
Icelandair Hotel Loftleiðir guarantees early checkin from 9am, plus you’ll enjoy a breakfast upon arrival.

Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir is centrally located at the domestic airport in a peaceful seacoast area in Reykjavik just west of restaurant Perlan, on the beautiful Oskjuhlid Hill.
The Icelandair Hotel Loftleiðir offers four-star accommodation in beautifully renovated surroundings. The hotel features 220 rooms and a Presidential suite. The rooms all encompass warm and inviting décors with rich colours and fine linens. The hotel has five different room types including Standard, Superior, Poet, Deluxe and Gimli Suite. All rooms are equipped with a phone, TV and refrigerator. On the ground floor there is an excellent restaurant and bar. The Loftleiðir also has a large indoor swimming pool, Chinese foot massage parlour (discount for guests), hairdresser, souvenir shop and a bank. A free shuttle bus takes visitors to the Old Town Reykjavík area five times a day. For those who like to walk, an easy path can bring you to the Old Town area in about 20 -25 minutes. Hotel Loftleiðir is found near one of Reykjavík's main beauty spots, at Öskjuhlíð Hill, with striking landscapes carved by the last ice age. The Pearl, located on the hill, offers stunning views of the city. Wooded pathways are an ideal way to enjoy the scenery or a morning walk or jog.

12:00 pm Depart Hotel for Golden Circle Express Tour for 5,5 hours
A motorcoach picks you up directly from the hotel and departs for the Golden Circle Tour which presents some of Iceland’s “must see” sights such as the world-famous Geysir geothermal area and Gullfoss. In one afternoon you encounter a spectacular cross-section of Iceland's natural wonders and geological phenomena. The Geysir geothermal area has spouting springs, bubbling pools of mud, hot water and exploding geysers with the famous Strokkur shooting water 100 feet into the air every ten minutes.
Gullfoss (The Golden Waterfall) queen of Icelandic waterfalls is Iceland's most famous waterfall, and one of the natural wonders of the world. On a sunlit day, the mist clouds surrounding the hammering falls are filled with dozens of rainbows, providing an unparalleled spectacle of colour and motion.

Saturday April 3rd - is Pamper Day at a five star health & spa resort in Reykjavík
The health & spa resort opened January 2004 is situated in a valley known as Laugardalur, “Hot Spring Valley”, a beautiful leisure area blessed with hot springs, complete with botanical gardens, a family zoo and an activity park. Laugar, an 18,000-square-metre health and swimming resort, has a full-sized outdoor pool and an Olympic-sized indoor pool, seven Jacuzzis and a big thermal pool for family fun. Other facilities at Laugar include a gym, spa, beauty- and a massage salon, restaurant, hairdressing salon and a sports shop. In the spa you enter an aquatic heaven where you can indulge both body and soul. Indulge yourself in six different saunas and steam rooms, each with its own aromatherapy experience. Enjoy the Jacuzzis with hot and cold subterranean sea water and the massage jet showers. End your stay in the relaxation room equipped with comfortable chairs and a cozy fireplace.

This evening we'll embark on the Northern Lights & Lobster - Jeep Tour: We head for the south coast into the dark night away from the lights of the city. Once we are outside of the city, we'll begin our hunt for the beautiful Aurora Borealis, while the guide tells us stories about this striking phenomenon, often seen dancing around in fantastic colors across the Arctic sky. The Northern lights originate from the sun, where large explosions and electronic storms throw flares and solar particles deep into space. These clouds of solar particles are caught by the Earth's magnetic field on the south and north poles. The solar particles collide with the atmospheric gases and create this wonderful light effect, known as the Aurora Borealis or the Northern Lights. Next we will visit the black sand beaches of the south coast for a little taste of Icelandic delicacies! As we continue our quest for the northern lights we drive to one of Iceland's most renowned seafood restaurants for an unforgettable lobster feast. And, after this delicious dinner we drive into the night and look out for the mysterious lights once again as we head back to Reykjavík.
• Guided Super truck tour
• Lobster feast and Icelandic schnapps
Please note that the Northern Lights are a natural phenomenon and sightings, therefore, cannot be guaranteed. Please wear warm clothing as winter nights in Iceland can get quite cold.

Sunday April 4th - is a full day tour: 8:30am Depart for the South Shore Adventure Guided Tour for 10 hours. The coach picks you up directly from the hotel and departs for the South Shore Adventure which is ideal for nature lovers of all kinds. There are over 10,000 waterfalls in Iceland and during this excursion you will experience up close and personal two of the country’s most stunning falls: Seljalandsfoss where visitors can walk behind the waterfall, and the thundering Skógarfoss where you can walk up to the falls and feel the refreshing spray of water on your face. From there the route follows along the South Coast of Iceland as far east as Vík in Mýrdal, a charming village surrounded by striking bird cliffs. Highlights of the day are stunning views of glaciers, black sand beaches and bizarre lava formations.

Monday April 5th - Departure for Seattle, but with a Blue Lagoon Twist

11AM:Morning departure by motorcoach to the amazing Blue Lagoon - renowned for its restorative and healing powers. Get pampered with a relaxing massage in the lagoon itself, using treatments made from the unique, active Blue Lagoon silica salts. Your confirmation information will show you the time reserved for your 10 minute massage. After your swim, you might opt for a light lunch at the excellent Lava Restaurant offering a view over the lagoon and its spectacular surroundings.
Afternoon transfer via coach to Keflavík International Airport for your departure flight (Blue Lagoon is 15 minutes from airport.)
04/05/2010 Depart Keflavik to Seattle on FI 681 5:00 PM - 5:45 PM