November News from Fiji

How time flies! I promised myself to blog often and keep you informed, but here I am again ... lagging behind. I apologize for that.

Since my return home after escorting my group to Kenya last August into September, I've been to Fiji in October on an educational tour with Sunspots International. In just 8 days, we inspected 22 hotels and small cruise ships. My pictures are posted at http://www.winwinvacations.com under Photo Albums.

This pictures is from the Yasawa Islands with the MV Mystique Princess from Blue Lagoon Cruises.

Please, remember that you can call on me for all your travel needs. I'm an African Safari Specialist, but I still know the world of travel anywhere.

Kristina Trowbridge, WinWin Vacations

206-297-7179 or 877-297-7179

Kristina.Trowbridge@gmail.com

Honey's Cubs

I was in the Masai Mara escorting a group from Seattle for 5 days from Sept 4-9, 2008. I have to report that Honey’s three cubs are doing well. Honey is the cheetah followed by Jonathan Scott from the BBC series Big Cat Diary. Her history can be found on the BBC website here:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/bigcat/animals/cheetahs/slideshow.shtml?dataset=cheetah1&slide=1
We ran into Jonathan Scott at a river crossing in the Rhino Ridge area in the afternoon of Sept 6, not having seen a crossing. He wanted to know if we had spotted the three cheetahs. I immediately recognized him from the Big Cat Diary and inquired if they were Honey’s cubs. Indeed they were and he said they were in the area. We exchanged sorrow over little Toto. Jonathan admitted it was one of his weakest moments ever when little Toto went missing. He so wanted to help little Toto fight the baboons etc.

Jonathan had an idea where to find Honey’s cubs, so we followed him to a lone acacia tree and there ... resting in the shade, were the three cubs. Jonathan was alone in his Big Cat Diary vehicle, but I saw no cameras in his vehicle. There was a BBC Crew vehicle there also.

The cubs were resting peacefully and seemed very healthy. I could see a little baby fuzz still on their necks. I assume that they are just 2 months short of 3 years old now if they were about 10 months old when Honey died on February 17, 2007. They are tall, strong and gorgeous. My guide Melvin said that he’s seen them take down topies, even young wildebeest.

Two days later (September 8, 2008, on the way to look for a crossing (which we never did see), we found the cubs again, but this time they were 40 km away in the Burrungat Plains. Again, they were resting under a lone acacia tree; they were fidgety and s seemed to be hungry; they were on the lookout. There were no signs of Jonathan Scott or the BBC film crew this time.

Honey’s cubs were very interested in some gazelles over the ridge, but they were far away and kept walking away. Then they spotted a few wildies coming over a ridge on the other side followed by about 10 zebras. The wildies kept on dancing like they do and soon disappeared, but a dazzle of zebras kept coming closer. The cubs were intently staring their way.
I asked Melvin if they would go for a zebra and he thought not. But they were so interested. Would they? Soon Melvin was on the roof of the car and asked my husband jokingly to take the wheel. Are they going for the zebras???? They were certainly intently staring in that direction. Soon, they were stalking them. NO WAY!!!! That’s a big animal and these are cubs still, after all. My goodness! Incredible decision!

It didn’t take long. The grass was fairly tall as it has been raining in the Mara on and off this winter, so they were camouflaged enough, but we could still see their heads abouve the top of the straw.

It was noon when we found them and there were only about 5 vehicles around. The Mara was very empty. We never saw more than a few vehicles all day.
The zebras were unaware and kept coming. The dominant brother gave chase. It happened very fast. There was no time for pictures, but I followed the entire chase and the kill in my binoculars. My husband got some video. They let all the zebras pass; then they choose the third one from the end, a young female, but she was just about fully grown. It happened very fast. They are “killing machines” already, these cubs. AMAZING!!!! From all accounts, this was their first zebra. Melvin never imagined he would ever see this. A few more vehicles arrived after the kill, but not many. There were less than 10 at all times.

The cubs have established who the leader is; he did the strangling and called for the chase. When he ate, he would growl at his brothers to keep their distance, so they rested in the shade under the vehicles or played sentry. They took turns eating and guarding the carcass.
No lions or hyenas appeared. An hour later a few vultures arrived, but they sat in the two trees available. Soon the trees were full of vultures, but they waited patiently as they had the time … pole, pole! The cubs ate slowly, panting hard. After the kill it took almost an hour before the cubs really starting eating; not until the vultures started arriving did they get serious about eating. They were exhausted after the chase and it was hot in the sun. By three o’clock, the vultures flew down one by one and landed in back of the kill. The dominant brother chased them back a few times until he was done eating and left. The other brothers were still eating, but the vultures very slowly moved closer. Soon the second brother also left the kill and the vultures got bolder and chased off the last cub.

Within 20 minutes the bones were bare. It was now 4 o’clock and there was nothing left of this drama, but the bones. Even the vultures left. The afternoon vehicles started arriving as we were leaving around 4:30 pm. You snooze … you loose!!

I just can’t believe that I saw this. Unbelievable!!!

My husband has posted his video on his website. If you have Windows Media installed you can see it here: (It’s about 25 minutes long):
http://www.tomtrowbridge.com/2008/09_Kenya/Video/Video/17_CheetahKill_320.wmv

Kristina is back from Africa

I'm back from an incredible learning trip to Africa. I flew into Nairobi on NW non-stop to Amsterdam then non-stop to NBO. This was the not-so-fun part, but the best schedule from Seattle, even though it takes 24 hours! There's no way around that. All flights are full these days and there's no legroom at all in coach. I think it borders on "criminal" with respect to how little space is allocated per person. I think almost everyone is willing to pay a little more for more space in coach. Upgrading to business class in not an option for me because of the cost. I'm talking $5,000.00 more and up!

Once, you get there it's worth it. The smell of Africa is fantastic. I feel like I'm home. Nairobi is a vibrant city and offers much to do. I always book an extra first night here to catch my breath and explore the city.

My favorite is a visit to the David Sheldrick's Elephant Orphanage. I always enjoy watching the baby ellies play: http://www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org/lifetrust.org/

I joined 5 other agents to visit Porini and Heritage camps and lodges with one night in each camp. This is exhausting and not recommended. I feel three nights in fewer places is the best way to discover Africa.

Then I flew to Zambia to join another group of agents and to visit all of the new Sanctuary camps just opened there. Sanctuary is owned by A&K. These camps are extra-ordinary.
I especially like the wildlife in South Luangwa NP where you will see Crawshay zebra and Thornicroft giraffe, not seen anywhere else. Of course, there are lots of hippos and crocs in the river and elephants can be seen swimming across in the early mornings after raiding the farmers' fields outside the park during the night: those naughty ellies!

I'm off to Kenya, escorting a group, on August 26, back on Sept 11. Come and see me at the Adventure Travel Expo in Seattle on Saturday Sept 13. I will be in the APTA booth education the visitors and promoting travel to Africa: www.apta.biz

Some news from the TSA: Starting Aug 16, 2008, U.S. airline passengers will not have to remove their laptops for airport security screening if they’re using an approved “checkpoint-friendly” laptop case. These new bags – which are on sale now – were designed to allow airport X-ray machines to see through them easily. Federal officials have issued guidelines for bag manufacturers to follow, but there’s no official seal that goes on approved bags, so you should ask questions you buy these bags to insure that they’re truly ready to go through airport X-ray machines. See http://www.tsa.gov/ for more information.

Kristina is travelling again

I'm again travelling to Africa departing July 15 on NW Airlines via Amsterdam to Nairobi. I will attend a travel trade conference in Kenya and also visit Abercrombie and Kent's new camps in Zambia that have just opened.

I will be open for business again on August 6th. Then on August 26, I will return to Kenya again, escorting a group on safari.

While I'm in Africa, I will post to this blog whenever possible.

If you need help with travel while I'm gone, please contact Sharon Emerson at 206-367-7657 or email her at sharon@cruiseandtourplanners.com


Kristina is the Featured Travel Agent in the July newsletter for Ker & Downey, a USA based luxury custom Tour Operator to Africa, India and South America. click on the link or the picture to see the article.

Showtime in Kenya!

It is wildebeest season again and the sounds fill the night air. - the migration has officially started! Concentrations of plains game under the acacia trees, mass together in preparation for one of the world’s greatest phenomena – the Great Migration.

The stage in the Mara is now set for the world's most fascinating wildlife spectacle: the migration is on its way from the Serengeti’s Endless Plains to the Masai Mara. The wildebeest are preceded by the zebra ‘chomping’ the longer grass in preparation for them.

A herd of almost 2,000 wildebeest have crossed the border from the Serengeti near Sand River gate, with a similar number crossing at Roots Crossing. This head of the southern migration is taking their traditional route towards Roan Hill, while others entered the central Mara plains via the western side of the hill.

The weather has played havoc with the traditional migration this year. Intermittent rain in April grassed the plains in green, which soon dried due to the dry spells in May and June. This dry and overgrown grass is now expected to slow the migration's movement northwards.

Looking into the Serengeti from the Sand River, herds of zebra and wildebeest on eastern and western sides of Naima-Lumbwa Hill can be seen heading northwards. The higher concentration is south of the Mara River and Sand River confluence, with the recently burnt area being the main attraction.

Kenya winters in the Mara are gentle affairs.

Airline charges have taken effect

I will try to keep you updated on all the airline charges as best I can. They seem to change every day, adding more and more fees.

Here's what I know today:
United, USAirways and Delta are charging $25 if you call them on the phone to make a reservation; American charges $20; Alaska, Continental, Frontier, Hawaiian, JetBlue and Northwest charge $15; Southwest does not charge to talk to you.

These airlines will charge $15 for the 1st checked bag each way starting on Aug 18: American, United & USAirways

These airlines charge $25 for the 2nd checked bag each way: All except Southwest

Note: on domestic flights only for now. The fee does not apply to Elite members in their frequent fliers program.

Most airlines charge a fee for priority seats between $5-109.00; check with your airline at time of booking as this varies within one airline as well.

USAirways charge for everything onboard including water and softdrinks. Most airlines are charging from $5-10 for a snack onboard. Many don't accept cash, just creditcards for purchases onboard.

They also charge for oversized bags, overweight bags, curbside checkin and for traveling with pets and children traveling alone. These fees can be in the $100's of dollars.

Ticket change fees are now up to $150 on American, Continental, Hawaiian, United and USAirways.

I'll try to keep up, but it's a challenge.

From Water to Pans – A Report from Botswana

From Water to Pans – A Report from Botswana
By Kristina Trowbridge, WinWin Vacations, May 2008
More pictures at http://www.kristinasafari.com/Albums/africa.htm

Botswana is about the glittering waters of the Okavango Delta,
that give birth and life to all creatures of the Kalahari.
Botswana is about the glittering stars above the Makgadikgadi Pans,
that shine vibrantly adding sparkles to the sky that totally engulf you there.
Botswana is home to the Bushmen with ancestries that go back millions of years.
Botswana is a well kept secret visited by only a few privileged souls.

I travelled to Botswana with my husband Tom on invitation by Ker & Downey on an educational safari.
I arrived in Maun tired from Indaba and travelling around Southern Africa for over 3 weeks hoping for a slower pace of safari. Imagine 2 nights at Okuti Camp, 3 nights with Unchartered Africa luxury camping and 3 nights at Jack’s! Okuti Camp did not disappoint.

Totally rebuilt from the bottom up with the most unusual tents anywhere it was indeed pure luxury. The Camp is located alongside the Moanachira River, as it flows into the Xakanaxa Lagoon, in the famous and beautiful Moremi Game Reserve. Located right on the water channel with a hippo trail below our deck, who could ask for anything more.
We choose the relaxing boat trip with Nelson on the Xakanaxa Lagoon as our first game drive and our first sundowner in Botswana. Here you see the most beautiful sunsets in all of Africa. Just amazing! The sky seems to be on fire, reflecting back from the lagoon like a mirror image. WOW!
After a scrumptious dinner and surprise entertainment by the staff around the campfire, we were ready to crash.

Moremi Game Reserve offers some of the most spectacular game viewing in Botswana.

Here we encountered this young bull in a trunk to trunk stand-off with our vehicle (yes, we have one too!), a pride of lions on the airport runway, a female leopard with 2 young cubs, grazing impalas and kudus, red lechwe running through the water, incredibly beautifully colored birds like the lilac-breasted roller and some extremely rare species of birds like the wattled crane and slaty egret.

A typical day at Okuti Camp offers morning and afternoon activities on land and water, with a packed lunch or returning to camp for lunch, then a siesta in the heat of the day and back out exploring again in the evening with a “sundowner” before returning for dinner. The evenings end with relaxing around the campfire watching the friendly staff singing and dancing, most definitely enjoying it as much as the guests they are entertaining.

It’s time to go camping … in style: And we’re off to adventure in the bush. Here we go! Nothing can stop us. Introducing Ralph and Kaelo - our incredibly knowledgeable guides from Uncharted Africa Safari Company. Uncharted Africa Safari Company was founded in 1993 by Ralph Bousfield in memory of his legendary (some say infamous) father, Jack Bousfield. I think Ralph is already legendary in his own right. Each mobile safari with Ralph is an experience and you can expect only the totally unexpected! Our first camp by the Xini Lagoon was our first surprise. Here we were surrounded by hippos and their songs, continuing all night like a dream come true. The tents are luxuriously appointed with real beds and pure white cotton sheets and feather bedding. All have bucket showers and a throne attached, which flushes the normal way. You couldn’t be more comfortable: enter the gourmet meals! These are coming from nowhere. The “kitchen” is just a few wooden boxes and a fire with some pots. Better food you cannot get even at the Ritz in Paris!!! Uncharted Africa Safari Co. is renowned for fresh tastes and original interpretations of classic dishes, many invented by Ralph’s mother or sister. All bread is baked daily on the coals in trunk ovens.

The highlight of our mobile safari in the Moremi Game Reserve was fly-camping on Xhobega Island. We spent all afternoon getting there on a double-decked boat, cruising through the papyrus on the Moanachira River. We stopped for lunch and a swim along the way at the Sand Bank.

After a sumptuous dinner in camp, Ralph took us out in the Xhobega Lagoon where he literally reached out and grabbed a baby crocodile (just like Steve Irwin). This was an experience I will never forget: hearing that baby croc cry out like they do, … and in person … well to me is indescribable. Ralph didn’t harm it in any way, but it just wouldn’t relax as we all had to pet it, of course. When Ralph released it back into the lagoon, it turned around to try to bite him, but Ralph was prepared for that, so the croc missed and swam away. I’m sorry, I didn’t bring my camera.

The next morning, we went back on the boat and caught a charter flight to Jack’s Camp in the Makgadikgadi Pans. The large pans of Makgadikgadi are the most visible remnants of a lake that was formed more than five million years ago. I found it be a vast wilderness of endless space and timelessness. This is where Jack Bousfield lived and raised his family. Ralph was the youngest child. He grew up trapping wildlife with his father, so he’s full of interesting information about just about everything in nature, which he constantly unravels for his guests like some madman from outer space. He talked faster than my brain could absorb it even though I concentrated, because I didn’t want to miss a word. Ralph stands 6 foot 2” and wears a lion mane around his head.

Here we got to experience a group of habituated Meerkats waking up and coming out of their burrows in the early morning. Oh, how I had longed for this moment! I was hoping that one would climb up on my head and use me for a look-out post, but today they were just sunning themselves before starting their foraging for breakfast. When they were warm, off they went, tail straight up, stopping to dig out what they could find to eat, like scorpions, frogs and lizards. As difficult as it was to leave them, they would forage for food for the rest of the day and we didn’t want to disturb them too long.

In the afternoon, we set out into the Makgadikgadi Pans on quad bikes. We rode those bikes into the sunset and disappeared into nowhere. I had no idea a place like this existed on earth. There’s absolutely nothing out there. The sky and the stars touched the ground and enveloped us like we were in a planetarium. It made me feel insignificant on earth, but still so privileged to be able to experience this. It puts your own life in perspective, makes you think; makes you appreciate all life, our earth and our roles to keep it pure and simple. As I was contemplating all this, Ralph again had a few surprises for us. I don’t want to spoil it for those of you who will follow, so I’m not going to say what the surprises are.

What would the Kalahari be without the San people or Bushmen as they themselves still prefer to be called? Ralph has an extremely close relationship with them and he understands their plight. He has arranged for clients staying at Jack’s or San’s Camps to have a walk with them for a few hours. Our leader was Cobra.

Cobra and his 3 young Bushmen taught us about their way of life, how they use the available plants as food and medicine, how they make fire, how they catch birds in a snare and how they dig up scorpions, and how the play games and have fun.
That evening, Ralph escorted us to the Brown Hyena den, where this 3 months old cub just emerged from hiding after sunset. Ralph wants to habituate the cubs to people as he has done with their mother, but for now we kept our distance to not stress them. It was such a privilege to be able to see one of these rare and elusive animals. Later, an aardwolf circled around the area and the mother hyena showed up after dark at which point two more cubs emerged from the den.
The next morning our safari came to an end with our flights back to Johannesburg.
This was an experience that few people will ever have.